We present, from the 1905 Lucile, Lady Duff Gordon fall catalog our interpretation of her elegant outfit entitled “An Episode”.
The inspiration for this visiting suit came from a splendid resource book containing the complete autumn catalog of Lucile, Ltd. dressmakers and tailors. The original was designed in peach lightweight wool. The original client of ours requested linen, and the sky blue color based on the Atlanta climate with it’s heat and humidity.
Again the adaptability of the Past Patterns products made creating this suit easy. The skirt and petticoat of linen on the outer layer and taffeta on the inner are built as one piece. We retained the slight structural flounce built into the hem for its more interesting shape and movement.
The blouse is multi-layered and proved difficult to build. The inner layer of silk taffeta is body fitted and lightly boned. Fastening is done using hook and eye tape and is center front. The gathered and pouched outer layer is of the same taffeta and embroidered netting. The fastenings are very complex. The collar closes center back. The pouching closes on the left shoulder and along the side seam starting under the left arm. Skirt hook bars run along the finished hem of the bodice and the skirt is hung from them as was frequently done in the Edwardian era. We chose not to copy exactly from the Lucile sleeve design, but attempted to recreate the feeling and complexity. Large rosettes of the netting are decorated with centered sky blue double faced silk satin ribbon double bows. The lace cuffs are lightly gathered into the sleeve ends and trimmed with narrow blue satin ribbon.
The tailored jacket is of the sky blue linen, and lined with silk taffeta. The collar, lapels and standing cuffs are of a navy blue damask. The jacket and the left front skirt seam are trimmed with a heavy weight machine made lace tape which is hand applied. The jacket has silk cord frogs for closure.
The suit made for the client is worn with short white gloves, and a late Edwardian tricorn hat in pale blue moire’ taffeta. The hat pattern delightfully came from a vintage Edwardian Lady’s Home Journal and was intended to be made at home by the reader.
This garment would make a splendid appearance at any Victorian festival or tour of homes.
Contact Designer John Richardson or Chris Piehler today for a complimentary consultation:
678-596-4019 / firstname.lastname@example.org