An example of an original Belle Époque ladies’ evening jacket made in France around l89l by the design house of Emil Pingat.


Pingat is an unknown name today in 19th and early 20th century fashion design and manufacture. He was very popular with American women and ranked second only to Charles Worth and equal to the house of Laferriere. The firm was listed in the directory of fashion houses from around l860 until just after World War One and was located at 30 rue Louis-le-Grand, a street running parallel to the rue de la Paix where many of the design houses were located.

The garment we have hear is a Dolman designed to be worn over an evening gown with a flat front skirt. We have modeled it over the Edwardian dinner dress made for Mrs. Peter Burns (see #’s 16, 17 and 18). The two front panels lie flat down the gown front. The dolman sleeves restrict the wearer’s movement allowing her to use her fan, and generally keep her hands folded in her lap while riding in her carriage to her evening engagement.

The back of the jacket is slightly flared, as gowns in the early l890’s still had the infamous bustle built into the upper skirt back.

The marvelously elaborate decoration is wire, wrapped in block silk thread and couched into the silk velvet of the jacket. It would have been hand applied while the jacket was flat, before assembly by machine. The lining is black cotton, quilted over some moderately thick wool padding for warmth.

The garment is damaged in several ways. The ties still exist, but the black ostrich boa that would have decorated the entire edge of the jacket has been lost. The buttons are also missing, but the buttonhole ‘plaquette’ is still in place. The lining being of cotton has deteriorated due to sweat and general wear.

The garment is a superb museum quality example of upper class ladies outerwear from an era of extreme elegance in women’s fashion.

Contact Designer John Richardson ​or Chris Piehler ​today for a complimentary consultation:

678-596-4019 /